Beyond Babylon Podcast: Syrian Truffles
Welcome to the inaugural episode of the “Beyond Babylon” podcast. I am your host, Nisan, and I invite you to join me on a journey of insightful discussions on the politics and culture of the Near East region, with a particular emphasis on Syria.
Through this podcast, we will explore the rich history, diverse cultures, and current events of this dynamic region. We will delve into the complexities of the Near East, shedding light on topics that are often overlooked or misunderstood.
So, whether you’re a seasoned expert on the Near East or just beginning to explore this fascinating region, the “Beyond Babylon” podcast has something for you. Get ready for engaging discussions, fascinating stories, and a deeper understanding of one of the world’s most complex regions. Thank you for tuning in, and let’s get started!
Have you ever tasted a truffle omelet? The Syrian rendition involves sautéing truffles with beef before gently adding eggs to the mix. It’s one of my all-time favorites.
Not only are truffles a delicious seasonal ingredient, but they also offer medicinal benefits. Truffles are packed with antioxidants, believed to lower cholesterol, regulate blood sugar, and shield the liver from damage.
I recently had a conversation with a friend who was deeply interested in a book about the captivating world of fungi. Entangled Life, authored by Merlin Sheldrake, is an eloquently written exploration of a realm we have yet to understand fully. Despite the majority of fungi residing out of sight beneath the ground, their organisms play a crucial role in supporting nearly all living systems.
My friend was captivated by the book’s opening chapter on truffles, and the conversation on truffles brought back memories of my experiences with eating this seasonal delicacy in Syria.
Growing up in Damascus before the war, I recall seasons when truffles were plentiful. Families would purchase large quantities and store them for later use. I remember watching my mother clean and boil the truffles, setting them aside to cool before freezing or cooking the aromatic fungi. I couldn’t resist sneaking into the kitchen to snag a boiled black or white truffle, biting into it like an apple.
In Syria, truffles are referred to as كمة, while in standard Arabic, they are called كمأة or faqa’. The fungi have earned the nickname “Daughters of Thunder” as truffle collectors observed increased numbers following thunderstorms. Some religious scholars in the region even associate truffles with the manna and quails that God sent to the Israelites during their journey to the Promised Land.
This observation has a scientific basis, as lightning triggers a chemical reaction in storm clouds, charging the rain with additional nitrogen, which in turn aids truffle formation.
The ancient roots “Kamah” and “p/faqa” have been used to form words in Arabic, Hebrew, and Aramaic languages. The consonant combination in “kamah” forms the basis for words like “kamma,” “kame,” and “kmehin” (the plural of “kameha” or “kmeha” in Aramaic and Hebrew), carrying the inherent meaning of “to aspire” and illustrating the desire to ascend. The consonant combination in “f/pqa” forms words such as “faqa,” “ conveying the essential meaning of “to emerge,” “to open up,” and even “to burst open.”
Cultivating truffles is notoriously difficult, which is why they can command prices of hundreds of dollars per pound. One of the most expensive truffles ever sold at auction fetched a staggering $330,000; this 3.3 lb specimen, one of the largest truffles ever found, was discovered in Tuscany, Italy.
Truffles have evolved to release enticing aromas that attract animals, as this is their means of dispersing spores. Since they grow underground, they lack the ability to spread their spores through the air like their mushroom relatives.
Though truffles may not be visually appealing, often resembling rocks or misshapen potatoes, their quality is determined by size and aroma. Owing to these unique characteristics, truffles are considered a rare delicacy in many cuisines, with some varieties being highly sought after by gourmet chefs.
In Syria, between February and April each year, hundreds of impoverished individuals venture into the Syrian desert, known as al-Badiah, to harvest truffles. Syrian foragers have learned to interpret signs on the soil’s surface, such as cracks or raised areas, to uncover the truffles.
However, searching for truffles in the Syrian desert is a perilous endeavor. The region is plagued with landmines, and the desert serves as a hiding place for Islamic State terror group fighters (ISIS) and Iranian mercenaries who control large swathes of al-Badiah.
According to the UK-based war monitor the Syrian Observatory for Human Rights, since February, over 200 Syrian truffle forgers have been killed in the desert, mostly in ISIS attacks.
In a country ravaged by 12 years of war and mired in a deepening economic crisis, where the average monthly salary is roughly $18 and 90 percent of people live under the poverty line. Desert truffles can fetch as much as $25 per kilo — a significant sum for those willing to risk their lives.
Mohammed Salhah, a truffle forager, told AFP in a trembling voice that his livelihood is steeped in blood, using the famous Syrian idiom “لقمة مغمسة بالدم.” This expression highlights the extreme hardship individuals face when trying to earn a living amidst inhuman conditions. It emphasizes the severe challenges and dangers people confront in their quest for survival.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xlqvUseEFec
The Syrian desert holds strategic significance and is a point of contention among various local and international actors. The United States maintains a base in al-Badiah called Al-Tanf, situated on the Syrian-Iraqi border. Established in March 2016, the base is positioned along the Damascus-Baghdad highway with the mission to support Syrian rebels in their battle against ISIS and to deter Iran’s weapons shipments from traversing Iraq into Syria.
The Syrian government, backed by Russia, and Iran-backed pro-government militias control most of the desert.
https://www.reuters.com/article/mideast-crisis-syria-usa-idAFL8N1JA3YC
Although ISIS’s physical presence was defeated by the Global Coalition in 2019, ISIS insurgents persist in roaming and pillaging the area.
Locals often fall victim to landmines and Unexploded ordnance (UXO) planted in the area. Iranian-backed militias and ISIS insurgents surround their territories with antipersonnel mines, haphazardly placed without any warning signs indicating the presence of explosives. This puts roaming shepherds and Bedouins in al-Badiah in grave danger.
Ground reports indicate that Iranian militias and ISIS insurgents have identified the lucrative opportunities offered by truffle season and have consequently established networks with select foragers and truckers. For years, war profiteering and looting were common among different warring parties in Syria.
Any truffle forager attempting to collect truffles outside these networks risks being killed.
On April 18, local news website Deir el-Zour 24 reported that Syrian regime forces confiscated 600 kilos of truffles from local foragers, alleging they had not paid a foraging fee.
The battle over truffles is intensifying, especially as demand grows in neighboring countries like Iraq and theGulf Cooperation Council (GCC), where one kilo can fetch over $50. This has also sparked clashes between rival militias in the region.
https://raseef22.net/article/1092908-كيف-يرسم-ضحايا-الكمأة-والألغام-مناطق-النفوذ-في-البادية-السورية
it is the impoverished shepherds and Bedouins in al-Badiah who pay the ultimate price with their lives, as they continuously find themselves in a struggle for survival within a country where death has become the lesser evil.
Until next time, this is Nisan, your host, signing off. Thank you for listening to the “Beyond Babylon” podcast.
Note: Some information in the text was not included in the podcast.
